The Shebag Kelly 28 is a timeless classic. Today, Shebag reveals some of our proprietary pattern‑control techniques, which differ entirely between small and large bags.

We have thoroughly studied the construction of the authentic Hermès Kelly 28, renowned for its exceptional structure and rigidity. This relies not only on precise pattern cutting data but also on carefully selected Epsom leather.

Pattern control for the Hermès Kelly 28 is a systematic engineering discipline that integrates architectural design, material mechanics, and extreme handcraftsmanship. Its core philosophy is to build the handbag as a “miniature structure.”

Sellier (outside stitching) represents the most rigorous method of pattern control. Artisans shape the leather directly from the exterior and apply resin edge coating for reinforcement. The sharp right-angle edges created by this technique act like structural load-bearing beams, giving the bag a firm trapezoidal shape that resists sagging even with long-term use.

Commonly used leathers include Epsom (heat-pressed rigid leather), Box (high-density smooth calfskin), and crocodile leather. These leathers feature dense fibers with excellent shape memory, making them essential for maintaining crisp, sharp lines.

The base of the Kelly 28 incorporates multiple layers of structural materials, such as rigid leather inserts and supportive components, to ensure the base retains its shape and does not deform under weight.

The four metal feet at the bottom not only prevent wear but also, through precise load balancing, keep the bag perfectly vertical and upright on any surface.

An extremely complex structural system is hidden at the junction of the Kelly’s top handle and flap. Custom steel strips or structural gaskets are embedded inside the handle and at the fold of the flap to prevent stretching and deformation caused by long-term tension.

The lining leather is cut to precisely calculated proportions. The opening angle of the side “gussets” provides horizontal tension, preserving the bag’s three-dimensional structure.

Every inch of stitching is done by hand using the double-needle saddle stitch. The tension of this stitch cannot be replicated by machines. Artisans control the force of each stitch to optimize stress distribution across the leather, effectively “shaping” the structure during the assembly stage.

When producing the Hermès Kelly 28, top-tier manufacturers working with Shebag follow a core “reverse-engineering” approach.

The factory acquires a genuine retail Kelly 28 and disassembles it, precisely measuring every panel, lining thickness, and stitch hole to create a 1:1 master mold.

Shebag insists on using “original-grade leather.” They source Epsom, Togo, and Box leathers of the same grade from Hermès’ trusted French tanneries, Tanners Hass and D’Annonay, ensuring the hand feel, scent, and natural texture match the authentic article.

Shebag employs highly experienced craftsmen who use the traditional double-needle saddle stitch. Each stitch is set at a precise angle, and the waxed thread ensures that a single break will not cause the entire seam to unravel—a key distinction from low-quality machine-made goods.

Hardware components, including locks, feet, and handle rings, are typically made from solid brass with heavy gold plating. The factory focuses on replicating the sharpness of lettering edges, the smooth action of the turn lock, and even the details of laser or hand engraving identical to the original.

For the Sellier construction of the Kelly 28, Shebag’s factory applies specialized edge coat multiple times and shapes the edges until they achieve a smooth, slightly lustrous finish without excessive shine, preserving the bag’s rigid architectural profile.